Denver's Asian Ambiance
From dragon boats to bonsai, kimchi to kimonos, Denver has come into its own as a center of Asian culture. The Asian population is small—slightly under three percent—but its influence is large.
Andrea Gross
Andrea (Andy) Gross and her husband, photographer Irv Green, are travel columnists for four publications, including AAA’s Home & Away and Penwell Publications. They have also written for a variety of other outlets such as TIME magazine, Ladies Home Journal (where Andy was contributing editor for 10 years), Newsweek.com, MSNBC.com and the Washington Post. Gross, who is the author or co-author of four books, is a member of SATW (Society of American Travel Writers) and ASJA (American Society of Journalists and Authors). When not exploring out-of-the-way places, Andy and Irv help people preserve their personal and family stories through their company, Legacy Prose. They can be reached at andy@green99.com.
From Dragon Boats to Bonsai, from kimonos to kimchi, Denver has come into its own as a center of Asian culture.
Asian Avenue Magazine, a glossy magazine launched in 2006, is proof-positive that Denver is indeed a western city with eastern ambiance. Founder and publisher Yutai Christina Guo had long wanted to start an English-language magazine that would provide up-to-date information on Asian food, art, businesses and events as well as background cultural insights. Finally, in 2006, she decided the time was right. Today the monthly magazine is poised to increase from 32 pages to 48 because, says Guo, “there’s just so much to cover.” Asian Avenue Magazine, which is distributed free of charge, can be found in more than 600 locations throughout the metro area, including many hotels and public libraries.
While there are small festivals throughout the year, the Colorado Dragon Boat Festival, held in late July, is the one that’s not to be missed. (The Rocky Mountain News called it Denver’s “Top Annual Festival.”) The statistics are impressive: 54 corporate and community teams comprised of 1,350 competitors, nearly 30 traditional and contemporary Asian performing artists, 100 vendors, and a grand 100,000 spectators. Come hungry, wear a hat, and plan to spend the day. [Sloan’s Lake; http://www.cdbf.org/]
Denver’s Asian treasures are spread throughout the city, and part of the fun is wandering the neighborhoods, tasting the food, and talking to the people. Here’s how to get started.
Southeast Asia in Southwest Denver
A general overview:
The Vietnamese are the largest of Denver’s 13 Asian groups, even outnumbering the Chinese who came to Colorado in the late 1800s. The Vietnamese began arriving almost a century later, after the Vietnam War, and settled in West Denver because the property was affordable.
Today folks can get a literal and figurative taste of Southeast Asia by exploring Federal Boulevard between Alameda and Mississippi Avenue. There are distinctive signs in Vietnamese, the citrus-sweet smell of lemongrass, the plethora of herbal pharmacies. All that’s missing are the rice paddies.
Where it is:
Far East Center at 333 South Federal Boulevard has the largest concentration of shops with restaurants, bakeries, markets, jewelry stores and a huge gift shop. Other businesses line both sides of the street for approximately a mile. A slightly smaller mall is about ½ mile south at 2220 W. Alameda.
Getting along:
Saying “hello” isn’t easy in Vietnamese. The greetings differ depending on the age, gender and status of the person. To get around this, say "bac-co-khoe-khong," which means “How are you?” “Thank you” is easier. Just say "cha-o."
What you’ll love:
• Saigon Bowl—The sign out front reads Dong Khanh in Vietnamese, Saigon Bowl in English, which is apropos since this unpretentious restaurant is popular with Asians and non-Asians alike. It’s easy to see why; the menu is varied, the portions are large and reasonably inexpensive. Hint: the chicken salad appetizer is big enough for a meal. [Far East Center; 303-935-2427]
• Pho Duy Noodle—One of four pho shops located in a non-descript strip mall, Pho Duy’s wins raves for its version of the popular noodle soup that is the traditional fast food of Vietnam. Warning: The small parking lot doesn’t even begin to handle the cars that converge at lunchtime. Plan on parking a block or more away. [945 S. Federal Blvd. #G; 303-937-1609]
• Little Saigon Supermarket—Live fish swim in a small tank, a man works hard producing fresh tofu, and the prices, especially for produce, are often 75% less than that of non-Asian supermarkets. (Fresh, baby asparagus was selling at $1 pound on a day when the local supermarket was charging $4.) This is also the place for unusual produce (Thai chili, Manila mango and Korean pear) as well as for having meat sliced razor thin for homemade stir-fry. [Far East Center; 303-937-8860]
• Truong An Gifts and Chinese Gifts—This giant store, a merger of Vietnamese and Chinese goods, offers everything from Lucky Lotus bamboo plants to smiling Buddha statues and feng shui wind chimes. [Far East Center; 303-936-5004]
• Vinh-Xuong Bakery—Vietnam has been occupied by both the French and the Chinese, as evidenced by the tasty treats offered by Vinh-Xuong. There’s a squiggly green cake made with coconut milk and bean flour (Vietnamese), sesame balls with a bean-paste filling (Chinese), as well as mini-baguettes (French). [Far East Center; 303-922-4968]
• Hong Duc for Acupressure, Chinese Herbs and Gifts—Hien Duc Pham, O.M.D. (Oriental Medicine Doctor), has 25 years experience in acupressure therapy and Chinese herbal medicine. One side of his shop is lined with drawers filled with herbs; the other side has shelves lined with gifts. Both are sure to make you feel better! [945 South Federal Blvd. #A, Denver; 303-935-6299]
• Gold shops—The Vietnamese often place their faith in gold rather than currency, a lesson they learned the hard way when Saigon fell. Paper money became worthless overnight but gold kept it’s value. Eastern Jewelry has glittery gold, diamonds and watches, all artfully displayed in showcases behind barred windows. Serious buyers only. [Far East Center; 303-922-4457]
• Lollicup—A Vietnamese Starbucks, this small shop has teas, iced coffee and fruity smoothies that are as pretty as they are tasty. Think guava, green apple and sour plum. A specialty of the house: boba, a cool drink with pearls of tapioca. [1046 S. Federal; 303-937-6392; denver2lollicup.com]
Tiny Tokyo
A general overview:
Most folks haven’t heard of Ralph Carr, but he’s a revered figure in Colorado’s Japanese community. When other western states were rushing to intern the Japanese during World War II, Carr invited them to come to Colorado. “They are,” he said, “loyal Americans, sharing only race with the enemy.” His actions cost him his political career—he was defeated for reelection in 1943—but the Japanese community grew and flourished in Denver and along the Front Range.
Where it is:
Sakura Square, dubbed “Tiny Tokyo”, is located in downtown’s historic LoDo District, but there are far-ranging sites as well.
Getting along:
Denver’s Japanese are so assimilated that most will do a double-take if you try to speak Japanese. But it’s still fun, and it’ll bring a smile. “Hello” is ko-nee-chi-wa, and “Thank you” is ar-i-ga-to.
What you’ll love:
• Pacific Mercantile Company—Founded in 1944, this market has everything you’ll need to test your Japanese cooking skills, from sweet snacks to sour sauces, saki sets to sushi mats. [1925 Lawrence Street; 303-295-0293; www.Pacificeastwest.com]
• Tri-State Denver Buddhist Temple—The hub of the Japanese community, the Temple welcomes visitors to Sunday morning services and gives free tours on Wednesdays for those who want to see the ornate altar or learn more about Jodo Shinshu Buddhism. [1947 Lawrence Street; 303-295-1844; www.tsdbt.org]
• Nippon Kan (Japan House) Cultural Center—Housed in a non-descript building in an industrial area of Denver, the Nippon Kan Cultural Center is home to a top-rated, totally authentic restaurant named Domo, a terrific small museum, an aikido studio and a small Japanese rock garden. [1365 Osage Street; 303-595-3666; www.domorestaurant.com]
• Sushi—Like any big city, Denver has an abundance of sushi restaurants. Two that regularly win raves: the coolly elegant Sushi Sasa [2401 15th Street #80; 303-433-7272; http://www.sushisasadenver.com/] and the casually friendly Osaka Sushi [3940 E. Exposition Avenue, 303-698-9919; http://www.osakasushi1.com/]
• Japanese Tea Gardens—Located in the Denver Botanic Gardens, Shofu-en, the Garden of Wind and Pines, is a two-acre plot that includes Pondorosa pines styled to look like floating clouds and a teahouse that hosts public tea ceremonies throughout the summer. [1005 York Street; 720-865-3500; www.botanicgardens.org]
• Cherry Blossom Festival—Held in late June, the Cherry Blossom Festival features Japanese food, crafts and entertainment. For more information, contact the Tri-State Buddhist Temple. [1947 Lawrence Street; 303-295-1844; www.tsdbt.org]
Chinese Revival
A general overview:
Denver’s Chinatown is a thing of the past, razed in 1940 to make room for warehouses and industrial buildings. The area, located in the Lower Downtown area around 20th and Blake, was known as “Hop Alley”. Now a small plaque is the only evidence of a once thriving community.
Where it is:
Though Chinatown is gone, the Chinese community is not. Unique restaurants dot the metro area.
Getting along:
Nee-hao is “hello” in Mandarin Chinese. Shie-Shie is “thank you.”
What you’ll love:
• Chopsticks China Bistro—The outside is less than inspiring, which makes the inside that much more delightful. Handsome black-and-gold armchairs and a décor that is best described as “Chinese modern” set the stage, but the main show is the food. A mix of Taiwanese, Sichuan and Hunan dishes, plus some appetizer dumplings straight from Shanghai, make Chopsticks the signature dish: Three Cup Sauce Chicken, a traditional Taiwanese dish that comes complete with bones and a rich sauce of basil, ginger and onions. [2990 W. Mississippi Avenue, Denver, 303-936-1506]
• Super Star Asian—Dim sum, which literally means “to touch your heart”, is a variety of small treats ranging from dumplings to duck feet. At dim sum restaurants, carts of goodies are wheeled around the room; people choose only those they like. At first, everything looks unfamiliar and more than a little scary. Then you realize that thinking about what you might be eating is pointless and pointing to what looks good is the way to go. Super Star also offers a fine assortment of menu items. [2200 W. Alameda Avenue; 303-727-9889]
• Great Wall Chinese Buffet—Buffets may not offer gourmet cooking, but the Great Wall offers a selection that can’t be beat; and while the quality may not be gourmet, it’s darn good. The four food islands are well stocked with a variety of stir-frys, soups and salads. A separate counter has sushi, and yet another has raw ingredients for a custom-made stir-fry. [3215 S. Wadsworth Blvd., Lakewood 80227; (720) 963-1888]
Aurora’s Korean Center
A general overview:
Affordable real estate plus convenient location lured the Koreans to the Aurora area in the 1990s. Since then a strong Asian business area has developed that serves Koreans as well as the greater Asian community.
Where it is:
The highest concentration of all-things-Korean is in the area bordered by East Mississippi Avenue, Peoria Street, South Parker Road and Havana Street. In that area many of the stores have signs in hangul, the distinctive Korean alphabet.
Getting along:
Many of the shopkeepers in the Korean district aren’t fluent in English. Smiles and gestures are the best way to get along, but for “hello,” try saying an-yoh hash-im-ni-kah. For “good-bye” it’s gahm-sah-ham-ni-da.
What you’ll love:
• Han Ah Reum Market—Called “H-Mart” for short, this mega-market is a trip in every sense of the word. With 65,000 square feet, you can find everything from a flat-screen TV to organic home-made tofu. Tilapia and fluke float in a tank; green tea and red bean ice cream are in the freezer (as well as double-chocolate for wusses). What’s more, there’s a sushi bar, bakery outlet and an acupressure-massage parlor where you can get a 40-minute full-body massage for $5. [2751 South Parker Road, Aurora; 303-745-4592]
• Café Sky—Gimbobs, a sushi-like roll with lots of veggies, are delicious and, says the owner, the favorite of most first-timers. The more adventurous prefer bibimbob, a combination of rice, egg, beef and vegetables. The prices at this delightful café, right next to H-Mart, are so reasonable, you can try both. [2767 South Parker Road, Aurora; 303-745-6262]
• New York Bakery—Despite the name, which the saleswoman says is popular in Seoul, this is a bagel-less bakery. Instead there are green-teal rolls, tofu crackers and mugwort sponge cakes. [10720 East Iliff Avenue, Aurora; 303-743-0001]
• Korea House Restaurant— Once a TGI Fridays, now a Korean restaurant with a modicum of Asian ambiance, Korea House is the place to go in Denver for Korean barbeque. A trendy dining experience that has captured LA by storm, people cook their own meats (beef, chicken or pork) on a grill inset into the center of the table. Once cooked, the meat is eaten with a variety of side dishes, including the traditional kimchi. [10293 E. Iliff Avenue; 303-696-0011]