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Three decades ago, an entrepreneur named Steve Ells opened the first Chipotle Mexican Grill in Denver. The counter-service joint made its mark with California-style burritos — and along the way became a paradigm of the fast-casual model, a concept that has since swept the country.
Occupying a small storefront on Tennyson Street in the trendy Berkeley neighborhood, Vital Root, a fast-casual breakfast, lunch and dinner spot from creative visionary Justin Cucci (Linger, Root Down, El Five and Ophelia’s Electric Soapbox), features fresh-squeezed juices and an innovative parade of flavor-soaked, plant-focused dishes that go beyond the norm. The herbs are grown onsite, and you can choose from three different kinds of drinking water: cold, ambient and sparkling. The Japanese-inspired miso ramen, made with soymilk broth, smoked broccoli, mushrooms, bok choy and yam noodles, is crowned with a soft-boiled egg, while the bánh mì tacos, slicked with edamame pâté, capitalize on the vibrant tastes of Vietnam. The café also serves weekend brunch and offers happy hour Tuesday through Sunday.
If you have no idea how to raise chickens, you could just wing it. Then again, raising chickens isn’t always what it’s cracked up to be. What to do? Grab a few friends that like to feast on fowl and head to this fast-casual Platt Park restaurant where fire-roasted birds rule the roost. A collaboration between Adam Schlegel (co-founder of Snooze), Alex Seidel (Mercantile Dining & Provision and Fruition) and Denver cocktail and bar guru Randy Layman, the modern restaurant, whose name is Australian lingo for chicken, is a far cluck from fast food. Here, in an open kitchen, the chickens, procured from Amish chicken farmers, are brined and cooked on rotisserie grills, their glistening golden skin and tender flesh served quartered, halved or whole, stacked between slices of bread for sandwiches and sliders, or tossed into salads and stews. If you’re still feeling peckish, the chocolate pudding is excellent.
From the crew behind Oak at Fourteenth in Boulder comes BriDer, an elevated fast-casual follow-up in LoHi that swaggers an all-day menu centered around rotisserie cooking and a communal environment that’s airy, contemporary and vibrantly outfitted with bright green chairs, reclaimed oak tables and a patio overlooking bustling Platte Street. The restaurant, commanded by culinary heavyweights Steven Redzikowski and Bryan Dayton, proffers a terrific New American-French syllabus of hearty salads, spectacular sandwiches (the Wagyu beef French dip is especially notable), seasonal soups, small plates, rotisserie chicken, lamb and porchetta, plus a lofty breakfast menu that includes everything from a croque madame waffle to huevos rancheros. The beverage scroll, overseen by Dayton, focuses on craft beers, innovative cocktails and a handful of wines by the glass and bottle.
Cuba Cuba Sandwicheria
Visually inspiring Havana Street art, a kaleidoscopic color scheme and a buzzy atmosphere lend a lot of character to Cuba Cuba Sandwicheria, which occupies multiple addresses in the metro area. The fast-casual menu hinges on a vast array of Caribbean-inspired sandwiches: toasted rolls bracketing layers of vegetables, zesty sauces and spreads and a choice of pork, steak, chicken or fish, all of which should be matched with a side of sweet plantains or the Cuban fries. Meat-based plates eschew bread for heaps of fragrant black beans and rice, although bread reappears in the spongy tres leches cake topped with whipped cream. To drink? A mojito, naturally.
Fried chicken sandwiches rule the roost at this trio of yolk-hued quick-service joints owned by the group behind Homegrown Tap & Dough, Park Burger and Park and Co. The trio of locations — Five Points, Denver Union Station and Rosedale — sports streamlined menus that focus on crisp-fried, boldly-seasoned chicken breasts piled onto a toasted bun and splooshed with everything from buffalo sauce to buttermilk mayonnaise flecked with herbs, marinara sauce, bacon jam or sriracha aioli. Computerized touch-screen menu kiosks simplify the ordering process, and the piping hot chicken sandwiches, served on metal trays, come down the hatch quickly. Slender, salted fries, fresh salads and thick milkshakes round out the menu.
Whip out your chopsticks to devour bowls of glistening raw fish at these colorful island-casual homages to Hawaiian-influenced poke bowls, heaping assemblages of spicy tuna, cubed salmon, ahi or yellowfin, rice or fresh greens and dozens of varied toppings, including avocado, onions, cilantro, tofu, crab salad, pickled ginger and seaweed. Top the bowls off with one of the spot’s sauces, the best of which is the house concoction with soy, mustard and sesame oil. Every poke bowl is served with a small bowl of miso soup, and while there’s no liquor license, the housemade tropical teas and lemonades are terrific. POKECITY has various locations across the city, one of which resides on the 16th Street Mall.
Chop Shop Casual Urban Eatery
This fine-casual, chef-driven restaurant is overseen by Clint Wangsnes, a talented kitchen magician who designed his Chop Shop menus to minimize the length of mealtime while maximizing his terrific food repertoire to ensure that tots, parents and everyone in between will be happy with their order. Grilled steak and chicken, macaroni and cheese, crispy-fried tofu and chicken fingers round out the kids’ board, while adults indulge in the union of slow-cooked short ribs and grilled baby carrots, the delicious French dip or fried rice with shrimp and duck confit. It’s familiar food prepared with finesse, especially when you consider the French onion soup, a bowlful of slow-cooked bliss. Visit locations in Park Hill and Lowry.
Biker Jim’s Gourmet Dogs
From the super-cool industrial vibe to the tricked-out sausages squiggled with cream cheese and topped with onions caramelized in Coca-Cola, Biker Jim’s, situated near Coors Field in the Ballpark ‘hood, embodies just about everything you could want in a fast-casual restaurant that aims to appease time-pressed eaters. Exotic game meats (think rattlesnake, reindeer and wild boar) are the primary allure, but there’s also an all-beef dog, an award-winning vegan dog and a terrific cheeseburger, not to mention a solid craft-beer lineup. The buzzing joint, owned by Jim Pittenger — Colorado’s undisputed sausage czar — offers indoor and outdoor seating.
Tocabe, an American Indian Eatery
The brainbox of Ben Jacobs, a tribal member of the Osage Nation, Tocabe, a cornerstone of both the Berkeley and Greenwood Village neighborhoods, is a coolly designed counter-service restaurant that offers innovative takes on American Indian cuisine. Its signature fry bread — puffed fried dough — is a delicious canvas for fillings like ground beef or shredded bison, grilled chicken, or vegan beans — and if you want those same ingredients folded in a taco, tossed in a salad or punctuating your nachos, the kitchen obliges. Toppings include roasted green chiles and sweet corn, while finishing sauces range from maple vinaigrette to sour cream and ancho chipotle. Behold, too, the meaty bison ribs, cured for 24 hours, braised in bison stock and glazed with a barbecue sauce sweetened with berries.
Keep your eye on the pie at these highbrow Neapolitan pizza emporiums with locations in the Highlands, South Broadway and Central Park neighborhoods. All are offshoots of the original Pizzeria Locale in Boulder, and while the Boulder prototype is a full-service restaurant, the Denver branches are counter service models that strive to streamline waiting time. The blistered, pliant and thin-crusted pies (the Mais pizza, topped with mozzarella, crème fraiche, corn, garlic and ham, is the star of the show) emerge from the state-of-the-art wood-fired oven in mere minutes, ensuring that you still have time to indulge in the pizzeria’s decadent butterscotch budino. Should you need further enticement, there’s a small (but formidable) craft-beer roster, along with wines on tap.
Chipotle Mexican Grill
A pioneer of the fast-casual movement, Chiptole Mexican Grill — born and bred in Colorado — ballyhoos dozens of locations throughout The Mile High City, including several that dot the streets of Downtown. The prolific chain’s claim to fame is its bulging burritos busting at the seams with cilantro-studded rice, beans, meats (think chorizo, barbacoa, steak, carnitas or chicken) and add-ons like guacamole, sour cream, fajita vegetables, cheese and salsas that zigzag from a roasted corn number to a spicy red chile and tomatillo concoction. Soft corn or flour tacos, crisp-shelled tacos, naked burritos sans the tortilla and Mexican-inspired salads round out the menu. If you want to see where it all started, check out the original location at 1644 East Evans Avenue, near the University of Denver campus.
Troy Guard is one of Denver’s most prolific chefs and restaurateurs, as evidenced by his ever-expanding portfolio of hits, including Bubu, a fast-casual, build-your-own-bowl concept that favors a healthy spin on Asian-fusion cuisine. Sporting two locations — Larimer Square and another inside downtown’s Republic Plaza — Bubu’s dining room is sleek with modern aesthetics and whimsical art, plus chef counters that peer over the open kitchens where the kitchen quickly assembles beautiful pyramids of vegetables, rice, herbs, seeds, cooked meats or raw sushi-grade fish, all tossed with housemade dressings that seesaw from carrot mustard to green goddess.
Olive & Finch Eatery and Bakery
Boasting zip codes in the Uptown and Cherry Creek neighborhoods, Olive & Finch, a polished fast-casual concept from chef and restaurateur Mary Nguyen, offers breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner menus that focus on obligatory pastries (muffins, tarts, banana bread and biscuits), along with dishes like egg scrambles, seasonal salads, two-fisted sandwiches and dinner plates dressed with roasted chicken, pan-seared steak, pan-roasted salmon and braised pork paired with polenta. There are plenty of other reasons to come here, too: fresh-squeezed juices, fantastic coffee drinks, a full slate of alcoholic libations and a communal vibe that focuses on getting to know your neighbor.
Fans of wood-fired pizza flock to this superb micro pizzeria in RiNo that’s as long on flavor as it is short on space — all 640 square feet of it. The pizzas, ordered at the counter, are flawless, their yeasty, black-etched crusts, smeared with a long-simmered tomato sauce and studded with impeccable ingredients: smoked ricotta, royal trumpet mushrooms, fresh ham and Biellese pepperoni. Be forewarned: All of the pizzas make resistance futile, perhaps none more so than the fresh clam pie with pancetta, roasted garlic and Pecorino. You could just stick with the pizzas at Cart-Driver and be deliriously happy, but you should probably order the glistening oysters, a charcuterie plate and a batched Manhattan to experience ultimate euphoria. A new, second offshoot in Lower Highland (LoHi) is far larger than the flagship and boasts a bona fide bar to slurp oysters and sip bubbles.
You can’t have a conversation about Denver’s fast-casual monopoly without a shout-out to Smashburger, a Denver-based chain that was founded in 2007 by Rick Schaden and Tom Ryan, visionaries who insisted on — and succeeded in — bringing a way-better burger to the marketplace. The patties, made of Angus beef, are seasoned with a proprietary blend of spices, hand-smashed, griddled to order and served on custom-baked rolls smeared with smash sauce comprised of mayonnaise, mustard, lemon juice and pickles. It’s a formula that works, and customers now flock to over 370 worldwide locations.
By Lori Midson