The single greatest thing about Denver’s thriving culinary scene is its dynamic visionaries, risk-takers and virtuosos—the chefs and restaurateurs who push the envelope, dare to be different and embrace an ever-changing food landscape. And these top Denver restaurants and food halls, in particular, reflect the city’s remarkable diversity, allegiance to local farmers, ranchers and growers and relentless passion for raising the culinary bar. From tapas bars to craft wineries, jazz supper clubs to cutting-edge food halls, there's never been a better time to eat and drink in The Mile High City.
Troy Guard’s portfolio of restaurants spans the city, and if you’ve been to any of them, you’ve undoubtedly noticed that the edgy chef is partial to quirky twists and conversation-piece aesthetics. His cannon of hits includes Guard and Grace, TAG, Los Chingones and Mister Tuna—and FNG, his West Highland newcomer, is a hit, too, taken straight from a rock ‘n’ roll playbook. The walls, mounted with vintage album covers that channel rock ‘n’ roll legends, are offset by a Simpsons pinball machine, ‘80s memorabilia flanking the bar, Jimi Hendrix coasters and retro board games. The menu, a mash-up of refashioned comfort food staples, trumpets meatloaf, burgers, fried chicken sliders and chicken-fried steak, macaroni and cheese, bison enchiladas and a formidable charcuterie platter heaped with housemade meats and the requisite accompaniments: housemade marmalades, pickled vegetables, mustards and focaccia. The beverage roster boasts 20 beers on tap, cheeky cocktails and wines that hit every price point.
From the Longmont-based group that founded Oskar Blues Fooderies comes this expansive brewery, grill and lower level live-music hall and event venue in the nucleus of Lower Downtown (LoDo). The bricked interior, fashioned with teal booths and banquettes, rustic wood furnishings and a striking drumstick art installation that surfaces the ceiling, sets the stage for the eclectic, Southern-tweaked menu that proffers seafood gumbo, wood-grilled oysters, pork ribs, shrimp and grits and daily blue plate specials. A remarkable beer list—tailor-made to complement the menu—illustrates why Denver continues to be at the forefront of the nation’s craft-beer scene.
Earthy trappings meet easygoing luxury at this coolly designed restaurant inside the swanky JW Marriott in Cherry Creek North. The sunlit dining room, flanked by stone accents, a swanky wine shrine and retractable doors that lead to a year-round outdoor patio ambient with the amber glow of a chill-chasing fire pit, aims to please business travelers, couples and families, the latter of which make a habit of partaking in the pancake social brunch, a Sunday-only affair that parades a complimentary pancake buffet for kids eight and younger and a supervised kids’ room where they can bide their time watching movies and making craft projects. Meanwhile, the menu—a nod to American comfort food—is dressed with a large array of share plates, salads, sandwiches and simple but refined main dishes that hopscotch from braised beef short ribs to mushroom risotto italicized with butternut squash and kale.
Chef, owner, culinary instructor and sojourner Linda Hampsten Fox oversees this dazzling LoHi market, bakery and restaurant that looks as though it could have been transported from Manhattan. By day, the high-ceilinged, sun-streaked dining room, awash in a minimalist white and black color palette, functions as an on-the-go stopgap for caffeine-jolted java drinks, housemade pastries, breakfast bites, sundries and sandwiches, while the ambitious dinner menu is a globetrotting homage to Fox’s culinary jaunts around the world. Slide a stool up the chef’s counter, where the air is fragrant from the wood-burning grill in the exhibition kitchen, and tuck into plates of charred octopus, braised beef cheeks, lamb osso buco, rabbit rarebit and hen coq au vin.
From James Beard Award-winning luminaries Bobby Stuckey and Lachlan Mackinnon-Patterson, owners of Frasca Food and Wine—Boulder’s lauded Northern Italian temple of gastronomy—comes Tavernetta, a regional Italian restaurant based at the boot of the Kimpton Hotel Born, prime real estate that overlooks the platform of Denver Union Station. The menu, created by Frasca alum Ian Wortham, reaches deep into salumi, cheese, antipasti, housemade pastas and sensationally prepared fish and meat plates that seesaw between a breaded Berkshire pork chop to branzino with fennel, escarole and olives. The refined space, complete with a fireplace lounge, a trio of patios, a centerpiece open kitchen that buzzes with activity and walls mounted with Slim Aarons portrait photographs showcasing Italians on ritzy holidays, suggests a lost world of wine-soaked lunches and dinners and sojourns to faraway lands.
Residing in the historic Stapleton International Airport control tower, Punch Bowl Social is a bi-level, multi-faceted gastropub and entertainment venue that packs a playful punch: bowling, darts, Ping-Pong, karaoke, shuffleboard, foosball—they’re all part of this 32,000-square-foot undertaking from prolific restaurateur Robert Thompson, who opened the original Punch Bowl Social in Denver’s Baker neighborhood and has since expanded to other cities. Beyond the attractions/distractions, there’s a Southern-intensive food menu that’s the handiwork of celeb chef and culinary partner Hugh Acheson, who’s dotted the board with everything from buttermilk-brined fried chicken and beer-braised brats to lobster rolls and a double-fisted all-American burger. You can break here for “pre-flight” breakfast or lunch, too, on your way to Denver International Airport, or pop in for a late-night Aviation cocktail once you’ve touched down in The Mile High City. What’s more, nearly half of the acreage is devoted to outdoor seating and pursuits— including two bocce courts.
The tomahawk (for two) and the bone-in New York strip hold their own against any steak in The Mile High City at Citizen Rail, a meat-intensive stunner tucked behind Denver Union Station just adjacent to the new Kimpton Hotel Born Denver. A timeless, art-deco design scheme, reminiscent of a railcar, yields polished metal accents and mirrors that mimic the scenery from the window seats of a train, while the open kitchen is aromatic with the scent of smoldering ash from the wood-stoked grill. A visible dry-aging cave showcases cuts of beef, charcuterie and chops, and the menu, the handiwork of chef Christian Graves, a San Diego transplant, is stamped with “Butcher Shop” favorites: lamb chops, a bison filet, venison chops, a pork porterhouse, grilled swordfish, hamachi collar and plenty of beef, all broken down in house by a designated butcher. Plant-based foods shine, too, most notably in starters like the Persian cucumber salad and in side dishes of cauliflower and blue cheese gratin, braised root vegetables and wood-roasted mushrooms.
Marcella’s, an Italian newcomer courtesy of nationally renowned restaurateur Cameron Mitchell, makes the most of its prominent placement in Lower Highland LoHi, its vintage-themed interior offset by a sidewalk patio peering over the downtown skyline. Named after a cook in Tuscany, the space, bedecked with hardwood floors, gold accents and a tavern tile ceiling, is jovial and comfortably romancing, especially when you’re sharing a cheese and cured meat platter. A large starter scroll (think braised veal meatballs, burrata and beef carpaccio) share space with pizzas, pastas and classic Italian staples, and there’s a handsome bar to ply you with plenty of wine, available by the quarter, half or full liter, along with stable of cocktails and beer. Desserts include profiteroles paired with pistachio, chocolate and honey-vanilla sorbet.
DENVER LOCALS' FAVORITES
Chef-owner Caroline Glover thought twice before opening her lovely small-plates restaurant in the sprawling Stanley Marketplace in Aurora. But since its debut, the petite nirvana of culinary excellence has knocked the socks off just about everyone who's set foot inside the plant-filled space puddled with sunshine. Named one of Bon Appetit’s Best New Restaurants of 2017, Annette embodies everything you could possibly want from a dining experience: an elevated casual vibe, seasonal ingredients that are never manipulated, faultless flavor combinations, a wood-burning grill that permeates the air with perfumed smoke and a small but enormously satisfying wine scroll. The cocktails are heavenly, too. In a neighborhood starved for style, substance and honest, reflective cooking, Annette is a gem.
Atelier by Radek
French flair is the order of business at Atelier by Radex, an intimate 50-seat bistro in City Park that’s walled with copper cookware and dotted with tables topped with scarlet linens. A classy hotspot for neighborhood locals, Francophiles and tourists searching for rich sauces and classic steak frites, Atelier cooks exquisite food that’s tailor-made to its surroundings. High notes include the curried bouillabaisse flush with seafood, lamb cassoulet and the decadent lobster ravioli pooled in a Champagne beurre blanc sauce. The wine list, with its emphasis on old-world bottles, has soul, brains and depth.
As Denver Union Station has developed, so has its demand for restaurants and bars, and Hearth & Dram, a gorgeously appointed watering hole and restaurant just behind Union Station, at the boot of Hotel Indigo, wraps you in its warm embrace. The lofty space, anchored by a showpiece kitchen commanded by exec chef Jeff Wall, ballyhoos a repertoire of charcuterie, lovely share plates (the stacked onion rings are mind-altering) and main dishes that zigzag from papparedelle with morels and ramp confit to a grill-etched bone-in ribeye for two. Art sculptures and a sweep of leather and plaid accents dominate the windowed dining room, while the sensational whiskey collection—hence the “dram” part of the equation—draws a swanky cocktail crowd to the bar.
From the founders of The Kitchen and Next Door comes this farm-to-table follow-up, a high-profile Cherry Creek restaurant that’s rooted in wood-fired cooking. The stylish interior blends lofty ceilings and blond woods with banquettes plumped with throw pillows, chalkboards etched with food-and-farm-themed art and an open kitchen flanked by a soaring shelf stacked with firewood. And it’s that firewood that imparts smoke into Hedge Row’s wood-roasted pork chop paired with beer-braised cabbage and the half chicken with curried couscous. Vegetables are not an afterthought: From the asparagus with whipped hollandaise to the wood-roasted carrots with ricotta, the menu is full of season-intensive sensations plucked from the earth.
Leave it to restaurateur and design genius Justin Cucci (Linger, Vital Root and Root Down) to erect a brilliantly designed, head-turning restaurant with equally jaw-dropping skyline views from its Lower Highland (LoHi) balcony. An elevator whisks you up to the fifth floor of El Five, where Mediterranean tapas and creative cocktails timed for the seasons intersect. And while both the food and libations are noteworthy, we wouldn’t fault Cucci if he charged an entrance fee just for the opportunity to behold the bright lights of the big city from the sky-high rooftop, which, at the moment, eclipses all others.
The River North Art District (RiNo) is already Denver’s hottest destination for drinking and dining, and it just continues to get better, in part because of establishments like Bigsby’s Folly Craft Winery & Restaurant, housed in a Victorian-era warehouse that’s been transformed into a gorgeous tasting room that’s reminiscent of the Roaring Twenties. Weathered brick walls, a timbered ceiling and a designated barrel room are offset by tack-studded black leather stools that front the bar, crystal chandeliers, vintage velvet sofas and dueling patios. Wine, not surprisingly, is the star of the show, and there are a dozen on tap, including several that carry the winery’s own custom label. Along with grapes, there are cocktails, craft beers and a food menu that boasts shared plates, flatbreads and charcuterie boards. Bonus: One-liter growlers are available for wine fills on the go.
It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing, sang jazz icon Duke Ellington in 1931. He’d probably be singing the same tune if he stepped into Dazzle, a supper club in downtown Denver’s Theatre District that jazzes up the city’s music scene with local, regional and national vocalists and groups who know how to belt out Ellington, Ella and Louis with style. Multiple stages dominate the large space, which is carefully laid out to ensure that the musician’s aren’t stepping over each other’s vocals. In addition to the performance spaces, there’s a counter that’s reserved for old vinyl, plus a sidewalk patio, a full bar and a large kitchen that dispenses a full slate of foodstuffs that includes seafood paella, sandwiches, pizzas and the venue’s famed macaroni and cheese.
Swanky, boldly artistic and punctuated with a pair of stilettos at every turn, STK Denver, a chophouse from The ONE Group, a hospitality company with a portfolio of international restaurants, is turning heads in downtown with its thumping nightlife zeal, complete with pulsating music courtesy of a nightly DJ and a focal point bar frequented by local celebrities, mostly of the athlete persuasion. Chef William Tuggle spearheads the kitchen, which dispenses a wide variety of inventive salads, towering tiers of shellfish, traditional steakhouse side dishes and slabs of steer that run the gamut from filets to a hulking dry-aged porterhouse, all of which can be crowned with an optional sauce, including béarnaise and chimichurri.
Squatting behind Denver Union Station in a new urbanized neighborhood development, the Pig & the Sprout is the grown-up sibling of the Berkshire, restaurateur Andy Ganick’s pork-centric spot in Stapleton. But while the Pig & the Sprout is much livelier, larger, more polished and significantly boozier than its brethren, the common denominator remains the same: going whole hog via a hearty menu that encompasses pork cheek tacos, pork schnitzel, pork chops, pork gumbo and pork rolls. Still, there’s more than that to the playful roster than just pig. Tuck into the carrot hummus with pepitas and “funyun” chips, burgers in every guise, a French dip that eschews roast beef for soft tofu and smoked brisket paired with collard greens and parsnip puree. The bi-level space also boasts an indoor-outdoor bar and mezzanine-level lounge for imbibing a build-your-own mule, a craft beer from an impressively deep list or a glass of wine.
On the fevered stretch that’s Upper Larimer Street resides Il Posto, a sparkling new Italian restaurant in the River North Art District (RiNo) from Milan-born chef-owner Andrea Frizzi, who previously built a loyal following in Uptown with the original Il Posto. The 2.0 version—all glitz, glamor and swagger—turns out a daily-changing menu of up-to-the-moment pastas that defer to seasonal ingredients; skilled risottos mingling with everything from squash and sage to pancetta and corn; beautifully finessed fish dishes; and smoked Muscovy duck accompanied by all manner of vegetables, including fava beans, chanterelle mushrooms and parsley root. Ask locals about the restaurant’s pièce de résistance, and you’ll get a unified answer: the herb-laced beef-tallow candle, the fat of which pools on the plate, resulting in a seductive puddle that adds a glorious luster to the slices of crusty bread that are served alongside. From start to finish, Frizzi unleashes wonderfully nuanced food, the kind that pairs remarkably well with a bottle of Barolo or Brunello from the show-stopping wine wall.
From the owners of the Tavern, Soiled Dove Underground and Cowboy Lounge, this downtown Mexican restaurant and cantina on the 16th Street Mall struts a visually stimulating color palette, textured walls muraled with whimsical Day of the Dead art, hanging star light fixtures and sunken loungey booths surrounding artistic tables, one of which is a lettered conversation piece that spells “LOVE.” And the built-for-sharing menu of modern Mexican dishes, coupled with traditional Tex-Mex classics, exhibits a genuine love of Mexican foodstuffs, while the tequila and mezcal collection—more than 200 bottles—proves that the bar team is more than a little enamored with the agave plant. To drive the point home, there’s even a mezcal lounge on the mezzanine level, which peers over the lively downstairs bar and dining room.
This same-name sibling of the original Kachina Southwestern Grill—a staple in the Westminster suburb—anchors the new Maven Hotel on Denver’s Dairy Block, a mixed-use development in Lower Downtown (LoDo) that’s poised to become a flourishing culinary destination. The Denver outpost, which also lays claim to a separate cocktail lounge called Poka Lola Social Club (the swanky, retro-romantic ambience calls for your cocktail-hour finest), is atmospheric with a large neon-hued wall-length mural of a woman parading feathered earrings and sunglasses reflecting a dessert sunset. The main dining room, a mix of adobo accents, marble tables and orange and turquoise banquettes that pay homage to the colors rooted in the Southwest, is the perfect foil for the food, a creative (but not overreaching) cannon of tamales, empanadas, chicken, beef and seafood dishes, New Mexican posole and green chile and the restaurant’s signature Navajo tacos.
Avelina, a sophisticated stunner in the heart of Lower Downtown (LoDo), turns out captivating New American cooking from an open kitchen that peers over a beautifully designed dining room. The award-winning culinary team creates cuisine from seasonally available ingredients for lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. From shared plates like roasted cauliflower flatbread and charred octopus to large plates including short ribs, pork tenderloin and Colorado striped bass, you can expect an elevated Denver culinary experience. The beautifully executed dishes, exceptional wine list, thoughtful cocktails and intoxicating ambiance are not to be missed.
Holding court in the heart of Cherry Creek, just east of the Cherry Creek Shopping Center, Matsuhisa Denver, chef Nobuyuki "Nobu" Matsuhisa’s world-renowned Japanese-Peruvian restaurant, delivers a swanky, high-end experience that mirrors the chef’s Vail and Aspen outposts. The riveting space, bedecked with reclaimed teak, stone and tile, provides a gorgeous backdrop for a post-work cocktail gathering in the lounge, or eyeball a stool at the sushi bar and splurge on the omakase, a multi-course tasting menu designed by a masterful crew of chefs whose plate artistry is second to none.
One of 50 tenants occupying square footage in the newly developed Stanley Marketplace—a 100,000-square-foot food-and-drink emporium in Aurora—Stanley Beer Hall is an urbanized, industrialized space that trumpets more than 70 world-spanning craft beers, a menu of beer-friendly small plates, plus a terrific double-fisted double cheeseburger. The food syllabus, the handiwork of chef Theo Adley, also features sandwiches, roasted buttermilk chicken, mussels steamed in a lemongrass and cider broth and a crispy pork shank plate for two. The most coveted seats are at the chef’s counter, which overlooks the action in the bustling open kitchen.
A veritable one-stop dining experience, this lively 12,000-square-foot gastohall, located in the hip River North Art District (RiNo), ballyhoos 10 stands vending everything from tuna poke and squid ink spaghetti to wood-fire pizzas, hand-crafted chocolates, pastries and Italian beef sandwiches. Complete with an ice cream shop, java joint, butcher shop, fish counter and bar that pours progressive cocktails, the Denver Central Market fulfills every food and drink obsession. Each of the vendors has its own seating area, but the communal dining space—the market’s focal point—is where everyone seems to congregate; there’s a big-screen TV, too, that showcases sporting events.
A joint collaboration between Peter Karpinksi, co-founder of Sage Restaurant Group, and culinary director Gregory Gourdet, a finalist on Bravo’s Top Chef, the sleek and sexy Departure Restaurant + Lounge, which comes via Portland, Ore., is turning up the heat in Cherry Creek with its polished Pan-Asian cuisine. Gourdet’s menu, which traverses through China, Indonesia, Japan, Korea and Vietnam, proffers modern culinary creations (think Vietnamese duck curry, whole striped bass with green mango and stone-grilled Wagyu sirloin), coupled with a dizzyingly diverse representation of dim sum, plus two tasting menus that take diners on a glorious romp through Departure’s signature dishes. The quarters—beautifully designed with an air travel motif—also lay claim to a sprawling rooftop bar with city-spanning views.
Occupying a small storefront on Tennyson Street in the trendy Berkeley neighborhood, Vital Root, a fast-casual breakfast, lunch and dinner spot from prolific restaurateur Justin Cucci (Linger, Root Down and Ophelia’s Electric Soapbox), features fresh-squeezed juices and an amazing selection of flavor-bombed plant-focused dishes that go beyond the norm. The herbs are grown onsite, and you can choose from three different kinds of drinking water: cold, ambient and sparkling. The Japanese-inspired miso ramen, made with soy milk broth, smoked broccoli, mushrooms, bok choy and yam noodles, is crowned with a soft-boiled egg, while the bánh mì tacos capitalize on the vibrant tastes of Vietnam. The café also struts wine, beer and cocktails, plus happy hour Tuesday through Sunday.
Beers, bratwurst and bocce ball—you'll find those and more at Rhein Haus, a behemoth, 14,000-square-foot Bavarian-inspired beer hall and restaurant in Lower Downtown (LoDo) that’s handsomely decorated with polished brown wood, flickering hearths and Alpine trappings. Enjoy a round of German or Belgian brews at one of the three bars, battle for supremacy on one of four indoor bocce courts, or pull up a chair in front of the hand-carved mahogany fireplace and nosh on housemade sausages, pretzels, schnitzel and strudel.
Chef Troy Guard, whose restaurant portfolio is the equivalent of a small kingdom, is renowned for his playful spins on Asian cuisine, and at Mister Tuna—the nickname of his father—the spirited menu dances to an eclectic Asian-fusion beat. Against an industrial-hip backdrop of sociable lounges, an open kitchen, garage-door windows and a gold-and-black color palette, Guard and his kitchen crew discharge a culinary canon of small plates, the hits of which include king crab with brown butter and black lava salt, Vietnamese-style kampachi and a Thai-inspired carrot agnolotti. The diver scallops, paired with root vegetable hash, housemade guanciale and kimchi, unleash bold flavors, while sweet finales like the chocolate brownie with mascarpone mousse, macerated cherries and candied nuts, deliver surpassing pleasure.
Table 6, a citified Capitol Hill bistro popular with neighborhood denizens, canoodling couples, tourists, food geeks and wine enthusiasts, basks in warmth and tender intimacy. The menu, galvanized by the seasons, is illustrated with starters like roasted chicken sliders draped in mushroom gravy and tater tots matched with fried crimini mushrooms and chives. Main dishes zigzag from duck confit plated with glazed yams and pearl onions to grilled pork paired with cheddar fondue and frites, a dish that deftly redefines American comfort food. Sunday brunch, a convivial outing that features a DJ spinning tunes, amasses crowds that feast on French toast, pork belly and doughnuts and a terrific croque-monsieur.
Rioja, a celebrated Mediterranean and Spanish restaurant, cemented the stardom of James Beard Foundation best chef winner Jennifer Jasinski, whose stunning restaurant, complete with a transparent kitchen and chef’s counter, transformed Larimer Square into a bona fide dining destination. Renowned for its pristinely fresh ingredients, season-intensive dishes, plate artistry, hand-crafted pastas, extensive brunch menu and thoughtful pastry program (including a fantastic house-baked bread basket), Rioja is a favorite of local and national celebrities, the food cognoscenti and just about everyone else who appreciates true artisanship coupled with an approachable wine program and imaginative cocktails.
A joint venture between cocktail scholar Bryan Dayton and reticent celebrity chef Steven Redzikowski, Acorn—one of several restaurants located inside The Source, a food hall in the River North Art District (RiNo)—is nothing if not a source of culinary inspiration. Redzikowski's expressively dynamic wood-fire cooking demonstrates focus, technique and precision. Whether it’s the roasted chicken for two, crispy Icelandic cod, shrimp and grits or the grilled ribeye, a fan of sliced scarlet beef mated with crisped potatoes and brown butter, the kitchen crew unleashes simple food done extraordinarily well. A deeply satisfying wine, beer and cocktail roster—including several mocktails—just adds to the allure.
It’s no surprise that TAG, a Larimer Square hit from chef/restaurateur Troy Guard, is one of the most coveted dinner reservations in The Mile High City. The menu, inspired by Guard’s Hawaiian roots, is a dazzling (and whimsical) manifest to the flavors of Asia: seafood pot stickers with Korean soy vinaigrette; flash-seared hamachi tricked out with pop rocks; a trio of sushi rolls; and Guard’s signature miso black cod brightened with edamame beans, artichokes, leeks and yuzu. The omakase, a parade of inspiring marvels from the kitchen, is the best way to experience everything that this stylish spot has to offer.
Euclid Hall, a rollicking two-story gastropub squatting on the edge of Larimer Square, is as skillful with its Thai-inspired pig ears as it is with its stellar beer cocktails. Pudgy house-made sausages and poutines—fresh-cut fries sheeted with cheese curds and maybe duck confit or carnitas—emerge from the open kitchen, which also dispenses cured and smoked duck drumsticks, lamb tartare and chicken and waffles. The pig ears, slicked with a tamarind-chile sauce and showered with scallions, peanuts, mint, cilantro and bits of egg, is all that you could ask for in a twist on pad Thai, while the lineup of craft beers, of which there are dozens, warrants multiple trips to the bar.
With a confident, artistic hand in the kitchen and another on the cocktail shaker, this fashionable Pan-Asian restaurant and lounge from chef-owner Lon Symensma (he also owns Cho77) walks the wok and talks the talk. Reserve a seat at the chef’s counter to witness ChoLon’s culinary wizardry, which often involves airborne flames, the result of wok-tossed Brussels sprouts mingling with ground pork and makrut lime leaves. The kitchen is best known for its soup dumplings—pinched pouches of dough jiggling with juice, sweet onions and Gruyere cheese that erupt like a volcano when they pass through your lips. Other spirited dishes, such as the impossibly tender octopus straddling a jumble of Chinese sausage, potatoes and pickled grapes, are unrepentantly delicious.
For New American cuisine with a distinctive French flair, there is no restaurant more treasured than Mizuna, chef-owner Frank Bonanno's endearing flagship restaurant in Capitol Hill. Blissfully romantic, cozy and unpretentiously graceful, the floor is overseen by an incredibly knowledgeable staff who are more than adept at pairing wines with beautifully presented dishes like pan-seared ostrich, Burgundian risotto with truffled black trumpet mushrooms and the decadent macaroni and cheese, creamy with mascarpone and punctuated with succulent bites of butter-poached lobster. Bonanno’s $90 tasting menu, which can also be matched with wines, is a splurge that’s worth swelling the balance on your credit card.
Comfort of the Latin-American variety is the calling card of Work & Class, a refreshingly free-spirited restaurant in the River North Art District (RiNo) from James Beard Foundation best chef nominee Dana Rodriguez, whose soulful cooking more than lives up to its ballyhooed billing. Driven by the motto, "a square meal, a stiff drink, and a fair price," the diminutive restaurant, which commands waits from the moment the doors open, proffers gratifying plates of cochinita pibil (red chile-braised pork), roasted goat and rotisserie chicken, all of which should be paired with a side dish: sweet potato and bacon hash, fried sweet plantains or the Wisconsin cheddar macaroni and cheese. There’s nothing particularly fancy about Rodriguez’s cooking, but sitting at the chef’s counter and indulging in the maple cheesecake or butterscotch pudding is all the luxury you need.
It doesn't get more classically Colorado than Elway's, named for John Elway, the former Super Bowl-winning Denver Broncos quarterback. With three locations spanning the city—inside the Ritz-Carlton hotel in the heart of downtown, another outpost in the Cherry Creek neighborhood and a third satellite at Denver International Airport—the sexy steakhouse is surf and turf nirvana. Expect everything from prime-grade blocks of beef and Colorado rack of lamb to oysters on the half shell and roasted Rocky Mountain trout. The lounges are full of revelry, and if you don’t have a hefty expense account, the abbreviated bar menu includes cheeseburger sliders and a cured meat-and-cheese board that won’t crush your wallet.
While Denver Union Station is The Mile High City’s main transportation hub, a glorious renovation in 2014 inspired high expectations from foodniks and barflies who waited with bated breath for the unveiling of the historic train depot’s culinary offerings; they weren’t disappointed. Morning travelers hit up Acme Delicatessen for biscuits and bagels and Snooze for the profoundly delicious pineapple upside-down pancakes, while Stoic & Genuine, a restaurant from chef Jennifer Jasinski and Beth Gruitch, trumpets nuanced seafood and fish creations that rival its coastal counterparts. Mercantile Dining & Provision, a lovely New American restaurant from Alex Seidel (Fruition) features a barista counter and market that sells hand-crafted jams, spreads and pickled vegetables, along with sandwiches and terrific cheeses (many of which are produced at Seidel’s local creamery). Book a dinner reservation in the gorgeous dining room to fawn over Seidel’s beef tartare, pan-roasted foie gras and crowd-pleasing paella. For a more leisurely dining experience, head to The Kitchen Next Door, a community pub that offers post-work escapism at the bar and a kitchen that doles out dishes flush with ingredients sourced from local purveyors. If you have a lust for libations, flash back to the golden age of swanky bars at The Cooper Lounge, perched on the mezzanine overlooking the 100-year-old great hall, or commune in the historic ticketing office that’s now the Terminal Bar, a festive space that pours Colorado craft brews, cocktails and wine.
The River North Art District (RiNo) is arguably the city’s most dynamic neighborhood, thanks in large part to urban developers Mickey and Kyle Zeppelin, a father-and-son team who, in 2013, opened The Source, an epicenter for food pilgrims, the cocktail contingent and craft beer geeks. The 26,000-square-foot indoor market, residing in an 1880s ironworks building, houses Comida, a Mexican cantina; Acorn, an American restaurant whose kitchen is quarterbacked by star chef Steven Redzikowski; Western Daughters Butcher Shoppe, a full-fledged butchery that focuses on cuts of beef sourced from sustainably raised whole animals; Crooked Stave, a brewery specializing in Belgian sour beers; Babettes, a French-inspired bread bakery; Caffe Figurati, a roastery concept from the founder of Commonwealth Coffee Roasters; Mondo Market, a specialty cheese, spice and sandwich spot; The Proper Pour, a lovely wine, beer and spirits shop; and RiNo Yacht Club, a limelight cocktail lounge, complete with communal seating, that’s the food hall’s focal point.
Josh and Jennifer Wolkon, the husband-and-wife team behind Vesta, aim to keep things innovative and interesting at their sultry nighttime destination in Lower Downtown (LoDo), a long-standing beacon of New American cuisine with world-reaching influences. The dim-lit, loft-like space—a cube of copper accents, antiqued mirrors, hardwood floors, curved booths and exposed brick—is simultaneously romantic and lively, making it an ideal restaurant for drinks and a cheese plate with a gaggle of girlfriends or a hot date over cocktails and cioppino, a saffron-scented broth bobbing with lobster, clams, mussels, shrimp and sea bass. Cocktail-friendly starters, including charred baby octopus with nubs of housemade chorizo, preserved lemons and cannellini beans, represent the kitchen’s global-leaning strengths, while the glorious charcuterie plate, an assemblage of pâté and house-cured meats, exemplifies the kitchen’s allegiance to laborious mastery.
Outfitted with a retro bar illuminated with Lite-Bright bulbs, psychedelic wallpaper that channels the 1960s and a throbbing rooftop deck that sports an Airstream trailer and sweeping panoramas of the city, Linger, an “eatuary” from Justin Cucci, is one The Mile High City’s liveliest hot spots—which says a lot considering that the pulsating restaurant occupies a former mortuary. Still, while the death motif subtly (and humorously) pervades the bi-level space, the menu, a culinary romp through multiple countries, elevates your spirits. It’s a built-for-sharing document that meanders through Asia and South Asia (Thai fried rice, pork belly bao and Korean barbecue tacos); Africa and the Middle East (lamb kabobs and falafel lettuce wraps); the Caribbean (Jamaican jerk-seasoned prawns); and America. If you’re adventurous, don’t miss the cricket empandas with cilantro-lime crema, pickled cactus and tomatillo chutney.
El Taco de Mexico
"For truly amazing flavors, El Taco de Mexico is a must," wrote Bizarre Foods host Andrew Zimmern, who visited the iconic Santa Fe Arts District taco joint during a stopover in The Mile High City. El Taco de Mexico, he went on, is "Denver's quintessential taqueria," unleashing the "best menudo and tacos in the city." Locals wholeheartedly agree with that declaration, lining up morning, noon and night for the al pastor tacos specked with onions and cilantro, the chile relleno burrito smothered with a mind-blowingly good green chile and the menudo, Mexico’s antidote for hangovers. Make no mistake: It’s a dive with a yellow Formica counter, tattered booths and a kitchen crew of stoic women who aren’t particularly amenable to idle banter, but it’s also the most beloved taqueria in town. And the fiery salsa is legendary.
With an enviable view of the Denver skyline from its buzzing patio and a hip Highland clientele, Lola is one of The Mile High City's most coveted spots for Mexican-inspired cuisine that’s long on ambiance and even longer on flavor. Do what everyone else does and start with the tableside guacamole, handcrafted from a litany of ingredients, including Chimayo chile powder, garlic and Serrano peppers. From there, move on to the elevated shrimp ceviche and favorites like the cochinita pibil with roasted poblano grits and corn tots, or the red snapper, a whole fish that’s served fried with pickled tomatillo tartar sauce or grilled with chimichurri sauce. The food doesn't require embellishments, but you’d be remiss to forego a margarita. Lola features more than 200 tequilas, which may explain why Food & Wine magazine named it one of the top five places in the country to drink tequila.
Sleek and stylish looks, smashing cocktails, a thoughtful wine list and flavor-bombed dishes set this River North Art District (RiNo) regional Chinese restaurant—named for Denver’s original Chinatown—apart from the rest of the pack. Owned by Tommy Lee, the chef-proprietor of Uncle, it’s the kind of place that could be too trendy, but the food lives up to the hype thanks to showstoppers like the Shanghai rice cakes, beef chow fun and Beijing duck rolls. Reservations are only accepted for parties of six or more, but there are often seats at the community table, the epicenter of all the action.
Been-here-forever Café Brazil, located in the Berkeley neighborhood, is easily one of The Mile High City’s most beloved food temples. Part rum bar, part restaurant, the sexy quarters evoke a sultry vibe that’s befitting of the equally lustful plates that emerge from affable chef-owner Tony Zarlenga’s kitchen. He’s a master of seafood preparations, unleashing dishes like the beguiling seafood Copacabana that involves beautifully prepared shrimp and sea scallops in a rich coconut milk sauce fragrant with garlic and shallots and ringed with vegetables.
By Lori Midson